If you’ve ever held a proxy that looks great but feels off, you already know the dirty secret of printing: the finish can make or break the whole thing. Color and sharpness matter, sure. But “in-hand” is what convinces your brain it’s a real card.
This guide is about the best finishing techniques for MTG proxy cards and why they work. We’ll talk coatings, texture, edge quality, and the fancy stuff (spot UV, foils, gilded edges) that looks cool on Instagram but can also turn your deck into a sticky mess if you pick the wrong combo.
What “finishing” means for MTG proxy cards
Finishing is everything that happens after ink hits paper (or toner hits stock). It usually falls into three buckets:
- Surface protection
Coatings and films that reduce scuffs, fingerprints, and wear. - Texture and handling
Embossing patterns (like linen or air-cushion style textures) that change shuffle feel and fanning. - Edge and cut quality
Cutting, corner rounding, and how the finish behaves at the edge when the blade or die hits it.
A card can be “high quality” in one bucket and still feel bad overall. The best results come from picking a finish stack that supports the use case.
Liquid coatings: aqueous varnish vs UV coating
Liquid coatings are applied as a thin layer and then dried or cured. For game cards, these are the most common “baseline” finishes because they protect the print without adding a thick plastic film.
Aqueous coating (AQ)
Aqueous is water-based. It’s popular because it dries fast and adds protection without dramatically changing thickness.
Pros
- Good everyday scuff resistance
- Less “plastic” feel than film lamination
- Can keep cards closer to a traditional trading card hand-feel
Cons
- Not as tough as UV for heavy wear
- Matte versions can still show burnishing over time (that shiny rub spot you get on dark art)
Aqueous is often the safe “default” if your goal is realism and consistent shuffle feel.
UV coating
UV is cured with ultraviolet light and tends to form a harder surface than aqueous. That extra hardness can be great for durability, but it changes the feel more.
Pros
- Strong scratch and rub resistance
- Looks crisp, especially in gloss or satin
- Helps cards survive lots of shuffling and table contact
Cons
- High gloss can clump or feel tacky when humidity is up
- Very hard coatings can show cracking on folds or bends (less common on cards than on packaging, but it can happen with the wrong stock and cure)
If you’re chasing durability, UV is a strong tool. If you’re chasing “feels like a real MTG card,” you usually want a satin or mid-gloss approach rather than mirror gloss.
And yes, this is one of those spots where the best finishing techniques for MTG proxy cards is really code for “don’t make them feel like laminated restaurant menus.”
Film lamination: matte, gloss, and anti-scratch options
Lamination is a thin plastic film bonded to the sheet. It’s extremely protective, and it’s also the easiest way to accidentally make a card feel wrong.
Gloss lamination
Gloss film gives high pop and strong protection. It can look amazing for art-heavy custom designs.
But gloss lamination tends to:
- increase slickness
- add a “sheeting” feel in-hand
- make fingerprints more obvious under certain light
Matte lamination
Matte film reduces glare and can feel smoother or “softer,” but basic matte is notorious for showing scuffs on dark, ink-heavy designs.
If your proxies have lots of black, deep blues, or heavy shadows, look for anti-scratch matte lamination. It’s specifically made to reduce visible scuffing and burnishing.
The big lamination tradeoff
Lamination is tough. It’s also thicker and more “sealed.” That can change:
- shuffle friction
- stiffness
- how edges wear (films can show edge lift on aggressive handling if the bond or cut is poor)
For sleeved play, lamination can be fine. For unsleeved cube nights where people are constantly shuffling, lamination can feel a little off compared to standard trading card finishes.
Texture and shuffle feel: linen, embossing, and “air-cushion” style finishes
Texture is the part most people forget until they pick up the deck and go, “Why does this feel like printer paper?”
Many playing cards use embossing patterns that create tiny dimples or texture. Those dimples trap micro pockets of air, which improves glide and fanning.
Linen finish
“Linen” is a common term for a textured embossing pattern that improves grip and handling. It can hide wear better than totally smooth surfaces.
Air-cushion style embossing
Air-cushion style finishes are basically embossing patterns designed to reduce friction between cards. They’re one reason many traditional playing cards fan so smoothly.
For MTG proxy cards, texture is tricky because not every print method or shop offers embossing. But if you can choose an embossed card stock (or a “linen air” type option), it’s one of the fastest ways to make a proxy feel more legit.
Smooth is not always bad
Some decks and products intentionally use smoother finishes. Smooth can look sharp and feel fast, but it can also feel slippery and “newspaper-ish” if the coating is wrong.
If you want the closest “game card” handling, texture usually helps. If you want the closest “fresh out of a pack” look under bright lights, a smoother satin finish can be a good compromise.
Special effects: spot UV, foil stamping, holographic looks, and edge gilding
These are the “collector vibes” finishes. They can be awesome. They can also be a problem for play because anything that changes thickness or surface friction can create marked cards.
Spot UV
Spot UV is a selective glossy coating applied only to certain areas (like a symbol, name plate, or frame detail). It’s used to create contrast: matte background, glossy highlight.
When it works
- Commander proxies where one card being special is the point
- Tokens, emblems, or deck box cards
- Showpiece “this is my pet card” prints
When it gets annoying
- Full decks where some cards end up with slightly different friction
- Heavy spot coverage that makes cards stick or clump
Foil stamping and cold foil
Foil can be applied in different ways. Hot foil stamping is a classic method. Cold or inline foil processes also exist (common in commercial print).
Foil looks incredible, but it comes with tradeoffs:
- can change stiffness and handling
- may emphasize small surface imperfections
- can be harder to match to “normal” cards in a mixed deck
Edge gilding (gilt edges)
Gilded edges look insane in a good way. They also scream “collector item.” Great for custom decks, not great if your goal is stealth realism.
Also, gilding does nothing for actual face durability. It’s mostly visual and tactile flair.
So yeah, use these if you want style. If your goal is “blends into a cube seamlessly,” keep special effects limited.
Edge quality matters more than people admit
You can have perfect print and coating, and still get that rough “freshly chewed” feel if the edge is bad.
Cutting method and blade condition
- Dull blades and poor die condition cause chipping, tearing, and fuzzy edges.
- Harder coatings can make edge defects more visible because the coating layer fractures.
Corner rounding
Corner radius is a small detail that affects everything: shuffle feel, snagging, and even how sleeves wear.
If corners are too sharp, the card catches. Too round, and it looks off. Consistency is the real goal.
Scuff control at the edge
A finish that resists face scuffing can still show wear on edges. If your proxies will be played unsleeved, prioritize:
- a durable coating (often satin UV or a solid aqueous)
- clean cutting and consistent corner rounding
- stock that doesn’t “feather” at the core
The “best finishing techniques for MTG proxy cards” by use case
Let’s make this practical.
For cube play (high shuffle, often sleeved, lots of handling)
What you want:
- satin or mid-gloss coating for durability and glide
- consistent cut and corner rounding
- optional light texture if available
What to avoid:
- heavy spot UV across many cards
- thick lamination that changes stiffness card-to-card
For Commander decks (usually sleeved, durability matters)
What you want:
- durable coating (UV or strong aqueous)
- scuff-resistant surface
- special effects only on a few showpieces
What to avoid:
- mixing wildly different finishes inside one deck if you play unsleeved
For display, gifts, or “look at my custom set” projects
Go nuts:
- spot UV highlights
- foil accents
- gilded edges
- premium matte films
Just be honest with yourself that you’re building something that feels more like a boutique deck than a stealth proxy.
Common finishing mistakes (and how to dodge them)
Going full gloss because it “looks premium”
Full gloss can look sharp in photos. It can also clump when you shuffle. If you play a lot, satin is often the better call.
Choosing basic matte lamination on heavy dark art
That’s how you get scuffs that show up on day one. If you want matte film, go anti-scratch.
Ignoring cure time
Some finishes feel “fine” immediately but settle after curing. If you’re testing samples, give them time. A quick shuffle test right off the line can lie to you.
Fixing durability by adding thickness
A thicker finish is not always better. Sometimes the best upgrade is a tougher coating, not a heavier film.
FAQs about finishing MTG proxy cards
Does lamination make proxy cards thicker?
Usually, yes. Film lamination adds measurable thickness and can change stiffness.
Is UV coating waterproof?
UV is more resistant than aqueous, but “waterproof” is a strong word. It’s better at handling spills than uncoated stock, but it’s not plastic.
What finish feels closest to real trading cards?
In my experience, the closest feel usually comes from a liquid coating (aqueous or satin UV) paired with clean cutting and consistent corners, plus texture if you can get it.
Should i use spot UV on a full 100-card deck?
You can, but it’s risky. It only takes a small friction difference for cards to feel inconsistent. Spot UV is better as an accent.
Final thoughts
If your proxies look good but don’t feel right, don’t blame the art. Look at the finish stack.
For most players, the best path is simple: a durable liquid coating (often satin), a consistent cut, and a finish that doesn’t change thickness or friction from card to card. That combo gets you the most “real” feel without turning your deck into a science fair project.
And if you want the flashiest possible result, do it. Just treat it like a collector build, not a stealth proxy build.